11 : Well-Prepared Traps
We worked closely with the Neighborhood Cats Organization create an trap specifically designed for feral cats. These feral cat traps feature extra large trip pans to prevent cats from stealing bait; extra large hand guard for protection from scratches; extra large double handles for carrying trapped animals; rear sliding door for easy transfer, releasing and baiting; and bait saver mesh on the back portion of the trap to prevent cats from reaching in and stealing bait from the outside.
11 : Well-Prepared Traps
Our rescue group uses Tomahawk traps and transfer cages a lot. The 608NC is roomy enough that an adult cat can stay in the trap overnight while waiting to go to the clinic the next morning. The back release door makes transferring so much easier! - Cleriece
For executives, whose success hinges on the many day-to-day decisions they make or approve, the psychological traps are especially dangerous. They can undermine everything from new-product development to acquisition and divestiture strategy to succession planning. While no one can rid his or her mind of these ingrained flaws, anyone can follow the lead of airline pilots and learn to understand the traps and compensate for them.
The framing trap can take many forms, and as the insurance example shows, it is often closely related to other psychological traps. A frame can establish the status quo or introduce an anchor. It can highlight sunk costs or lead you toward confirming evidence. Decision researchers have documented two types of frames that distort decision making with particular frequency:
The best way to avoid the estimating and forecasting traps is to take a very disciplined approach to making forecasts and judging probabilities. For each of the three traps, some additional precautions can be taken:
For further discussions of decision traps, see: J. Edward Russo and Paul J. H. Schoemaker, Decision Traps: The Ten Barriers to Brilliant Decision Making and How to Overcome Them (New York: Simon & Schuster, 1989) and Max Bazerman, Judgment in Managerial Decision Making (New York: John Wiley & Sons, fourth edition, 1998).
2. Neuter (or spay): Take the cats in their traps to a veterinarian or clinic to be neutered, vaccinated, and eartipped (the universal symbol of a neutered and vaccinated cat. Learn more at alleycat.org/Eartip).
Use your discretion and common sense to determine any additional steps to those provided in this guide, and tailor the basics to fit your situation. For instance, you may need to work with college administrators, connect with other caregivers, or ensure you have enough traps and vehicles for a large colony.
(Never use darts or tranquilizers.) Examples of a box trap and drop trap can be found below. In addition, you can look at and learn more about traps and other helpful TNR equipment at alleycat.org/Equipment.
Tip: To make your TNR effort easier, put the food for the cats in unset traps for one to two weeks prior to the trapping day. (Take the back door off entirely) This will get the cats comfortable with seeing and walking into traps.
Do not put food anywhere else but inside the trap, and remove the back door or secure the door of the trap so it stays open. Remove the traps after the cats eat so there are no risks of theft, damage, or trapping a cat accidentally.
Confirm that the clinic uses dissolvable sutures so no appointment is needed to remove them. Also confirm that the staff will remove all items they attach to the cats, such as tags, bandages, collars, or any other items the clinic may use to identify or treat them. Be sure that the trap tags, which include important information about where each cat should be returned, stay on the traps and that the same cats are returned to the traps they were removed from.
Withhold food 24 hours before trapping, but always provide water. This will ensure that the cats are hungry enough to go into the traps. Remind other caregivers and neighbors to withhold food as well.
Tip: Keep an eye on the traps at all times for the safety of the cats, and to make sure your equipment is not taken or tampered with. Observe from a location far enough away that the cats will not be disturbed, but close enough to see all the traps. NEVER leave a set trap unattended.
2. When trapping an entire colony, use your best judgment about removing each cat as they are trapped. Going to get one trap could scare away the other cats and disrupt the rest of the trapping. Wait to remove the trapped cats until other cats are not around. When setting out your traps, partially cover the back end of them to give trapped cats a bit of security until you can cover them fully.
2. Let the cats recover overnight in their traps, either at the clinic or in the recovery area you have set up for them. Make sure the traps remain in the climate-controlled and quiet recovery area that you already prepared.
5. Feed kittens under 6 months old shortly after they wake from anesthesia. Adult cats can be fed a few hours after they wake, but you may wait to feed them until after you return them to their colony site. To learn how to safely feed cats while they are in their traps, go to alleycat.org/PostSurgery.
For 85% of Americans, the purchase of a new vehicle means taking on monthly payments. But for too many buyers, auto loans are turning into debt traps from which escape can be difficult. Today, one in six new car purchasers who finance are committing to monthly payments of $1,000 or more, with some contracts extending to seven or even eight years.
Carrying a Firearm: Any licensed trapper is allowed to carry a firearm at any time while tending traps (including nights and Sundays) for the sole purpose of dispatching trapped animals. However, any person prohibited from possessing a firearm under the Maine Revised Statutes, Title 15, Section 393 is prohibited from carrying a firearm during the open trapping season for the purpose of dispatching animals unless they have obtained a valid permit to carry a firearm.
Disturbing Traps: It is unlawful to take or disturb any trap, or any wild animal which is caught in a trap, without permission from the owner of the trap. An individual convicted of disturbing traps, will lose any license in effect, and be ineligible to purchase any license issued by the Department for 3 years.
Setback Distance: Traps are required to be set at least 5 feet away from another person's beaver traps; however, as a matter of common courtesy, traps should be set a reasonable distance away from any trap which has been set by someone else. See regulations related to setback distances from beaver houses, beaver dams, and muskrat houses.
Trapping Within the Built-up Portion of a Town: Trapping is only permitted within of the built-up portion of a city or town with the use of cage-type live traps and drowning sets, unless trapping on property owned by the trapper.
Trap Identification: Each trap set must be clearly labeled with trapper's full name and address. If two people are trapping together, it is not necessary to have the name and address of both trappers on each trap. Note: The recommended method for labeling traps is to attach a small metal tag to each trap chain with a piece of wire. The tag should be preprinted with your name and address.
Visible Bait: Foothold or killer-type traps must not be set within 50 yards of bait that is visible from above. Bait may be used for trapping if it is completely covered to prevent it from being seen from above, and it must be covered in such a way as to withstand wind action and other normal environmental conditions. Animal matter (e.g., feathers, bone, and fur) meet the definition of bait and visible attractor and must be covered or not visible from above if less than 50 yards from a foothold or killer-type trap.
Trappers are permitted to keep any incidental opossum, raccoon or skunk that are caught in fox and coyote traps. Any other furbearing animal caught incidentally in fox and coyote traps must be released alive immediately, except lynx (see What to do if I Catch a Lynx) or,if found dead, must be left in the trap and reported to a game warden as soon as possible.
After February 28, in those Wildlife Management Districts that remain open to beaver trapping, muskrat trapping is restricted to 1) killer-type traps, foothold traps, and colony traps, which must be set, placed, and tended to remain underwater; or 2) foothold traps on "covered floats." During late muskrat trapping season, only one trap may be placed per float; the trap must be recessed 3 inches or greater from any opening in the cover; the trap chain or wire must be at least 3 feet long; and the maximum foothold trap size for covered floats sets is No. 1 or equivalent (maximum inside jaw spread no greater than 5 3/8inches).
Cage-type live traps may be used to trap for furbearing animals. In WMDs 1-6 and 8-11, cage traps must have an opening of no more than 13" in width and 13" in height, unless the cage trap is being used for (1) wildlife research and survey activities; (2) removal of animals causing damage to property; or (3) to capture a bear. Culvert traps are a type of cage-type live trap.
Poison roach bait traps are tremendously effective cockroach-killing tools. Unlike roach sticky traps, which target roaches individually, roach bait traps have active ingredients that slowly poison the roaches that eat it, then spread to and poison the colony itself.
Save your last sip of beer (or wine) and use it to trap roaches! Research has shown that the smells of beer and wine attract these bugs just as well as leftover food. Once cockroaches venture in, the tall bottle, coated inside with slippery oil, traps roaches for good.
KIND OF LATE BUT..Consider investing in carnivorous plants! Venus fly traps, cape sundews, North American pitcher plants.. all good at eating insects like flies. If your having problems with fruit flies North American pitcher plants, sundews, or butterwort plants will take care of them nicely. Assuming that you read this comment I strongly you recommend researching as they are like super low matience pets. 041b061a72